Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Memories of Chinese Restaurants

I drove down Mount Road after a long time.
From the Gemini Circle to the Spencer Plaza end and caught in the evening rush hour, I gazed at the gleaming facade of a new building in Thousand Lights.

It wasn't the facade that interested me.
Wasn't this the place where one of our favourite Chinese restaurants existed?

I think it was called Nanking.
Why did we go there to eat in the 70s and 80s?

I was always fascinated by the way its entrance looked.
Wooden panels which framed quaint Chinese paintings on glass reflected the red and yellow light that streamed from above and from inside.
Some Chinese trinklets that were dropped from the door frame.
And if you froze for a few seconds on the sidewalk here you could pick up strains of music from the inside.
It was the kind of entrance which promised the unknown for a first time diner.

Nanking, if the name was right, had a warm atmosphere inside.
I did not get to know its owner very well. But one Anglo-Indian steward who lived beyond Perambur was a delight.
For, he would play all the old rock n' roll numbers on the music system in the dark corner. And he had stories of the city to share while the food was being cooked.

Nanking was a family-run restaurant like the many others in this city.
And if you were a diner enjoying the last service of the day, you would find the family sitting down at one of the tables for dinner.

There was a similar restaurant on Greames Road, its name I have now forgotten.
We went there for its delightful vegetable soup and the no-frills food.

Both these restaurants are now history.
I had wondered if Nanking would find a place in the same area off Mount Road after the house it occupied was demolished.
It certainly would have been anachronistic had it been given space or had the money to rent it in the new building where a private bank has come up and corporate offices may move in soon.

Where is the Nanking family today?
The Chinese community of this city deserves to be written about.
Perhaps you have stories to share here.

Saturday, April 28, 2007

Civil Society Groups in action

Some years ago, we at the ADYAR TIMES promoted a sand castle contest on Elliots Beach.
I guess we did it in the summer hols so that children could have some fun.
You rarely see moms and dads taking their little kids out to the seashore, armed with buckets, pails and little spades, to build castles out of wet sand.

Perhaps, some artistic young people of Adyar should hold Sunday camps on the beach side this summer.

Well, last weekend, some young people carved a Olive Ridley turtle on this beach. A really large one. The act was one of the many things that made up a Beach Fest hosted by the Civil Society Group.I came across this group when it became public that the city Corporation wanted to 'beautify' the beach and on its agenda were plans to put up many structures on the sands. And a few beach users were against it. They wanted to discuss the plans, involve people and then plan the project.

The Group is small; some studied at the KFI-The School or are on its campus now. There are also a few community activists and Adyarites who have lived in this region for decades.

But they seem serious. They have conducted a survey amongst beach users on what must be done on this beach. They have had meetings with the civic officials too. They have invited professionals to present alternatives and ideas. Architect Tara Murali who is also with INTACH has been one such.

And the most positive action from their side has been to move forward - so they are convincing the hawkers who sell bajjis and fried fish, who run 'shoot-the balloon' stalls and the rest not to use plastic cups and bags and not to dump waste in the sands. I hear the food hawkers are being given water cans and paper plates so they we can avoid using plastic water sachets. . .

The CSG also seems alive. So when the Corporation of Chennai began to chop down many avenue trees ( some were over 50 years old) on Sardar Patel Road, to make space for a new flyover at the Madhya Kailash junction, the start point of that smart-looking IT Corridor road, the CSG volunteers responded.

Some of them sent a flurry of e-mails in protest, some rushed out at midnight to challenge the labourers who were sawing the trunks and they organised a protest demo on the main road. ( The photos here are by C P Dhanasekar)

Though the effort is small, disconnected and lags when the issues are so severe, it needs appreciation.

That is because there are very few civil society groups who are alive to issues that affect Chennai. We do not have people of stature who stick their neck out, who sign petitions or lead a protest.
And we need stronger action in the face of unilateral, one-sided plans that are thrust on this city.

I was hoping that the IITians and the College of Engg. students would be engaged in the 'trees' campaign. It did not happen.
If you want to join this group, email to - civilsocietygroup@googlegroups.com

Wednesday, April 25, 2007

Season for Summer Camps!

You notice a different kind of traffic on our neighbourhood roads nowadays.
A father ferrying his son armed with a badminton racquet.
A mother carting her daughter dressed in karate uniform.
A grandpa dropping off 10-year-old Shruti at a pottery camp in the suburbs.

With schools having closed for summer holidays, it is the season for summer camps.
A random count could put them at close to 200!
There are all kinds of camps in all our neighbourhoods. And these include the 'lets-make-a-quick-buck' types too.

The pedestrian ones are the camps which promise to train the young ones in arts and crafts, music and dance.
The boring ones, to me, are the camps which extend the classroom into the holidays - the sort who promise to increase memory power, or teach Vedic math or prepare you for the Plus Two exam!

There are are some interesting ones too. Theatreperson KK (Krishna Kumar) of Masquerade is going beyond a theatre camp; he plans to also prepare the children for a production which will go on stage weeks later.

With Chennai's neighbourhoods now better defined and spread out, creative people and those in the the activity business are well prepared to promote such camps well before the annual exams are over.

You rarely hear of children talking of going on holidays to their 'native places'. Holidays to the hills, or to Bangalore or to Delhi, or to the Far East - yes, that you will hear of.
But holidays to Alapuzha or Karaikudi or Udupi . . . you hear less of 'native' places.
Those are summer holiday times of another generation.

My own summer camp, which has become an annual feature, is on the basics of journalism. The idea is to expose senior school students to this profession, encourage them to improve their writing skills and take a closer look at newspapers, radio,TV and the Net.
Seven students are attending this camp at the 'Mylapore Times' office. And their reports are posted on a blog - www.mtjclass.blogspot.com.
We wanted the kids to also use tech-tools as part of their work. Friends Satya of New Horizon Media and Revathi who runs www.yocee.in are handling that part of the workshop.

When we wind up the camp we hope to explore a landmark. Perhaps do the round of the devastated Pallikarnai marshlands ( in the suburb in the south) and then retire for a nice lunch on the East Coast Road.

In between, I hope to hop across to my native place - Mangalore!

Saturday, April 07, 2007

Heritage walks and Kalathi rose milk!

For the first time perhaps, a religious festival with social overlaps, had a poster for itself.
The annual Panguni Fest of Sri Kapali Temple, Mylapore.

We at MYLAPORE TIMES seem to get sucked into everything Mylapore!
Over the years, we have brought out a little brochure on this colourful fest.

And this time, with some support from Nallis, we put out a colourfully designed ( designer - K. S. Gunasekar) poster ( which you can enjoy here)
And we put it up at all the touristy destinations, hangouts and community centres.

I believe that such festivals need better promotion in Chennai. And though I did send a poster to Irai Anbu, said to be a dynamic government secretary (now with the Tourism Dept.) we did not get an acknowledgement.
I suppose such private and small efforts rarely get recognised and reason why they do not go on to bloom!

We weren't dampened though. With gifts as prizes from www.yocee.in, we held an arts contest for kids for the fest. Kids had to sit near the temple ther (chariot), gaze at the ther and draw their own version of a chariot!
A note which 'The Hindu' put out on this contest had a devil's error! Or was it a printer's devil?!! It said the contest was at 8 pm! And we got dozens of calls wondering why the contest was so late!


But 26 kids enjoyed their fun beside the 'ther'. Some of the drawings were great, and colourful too.
It was a way to get the kids to know what a ther is all about!

We also had the adults out to enjoy the sights of the festival. They were on a heritage walk that Namma Mylapore, a local NGO for civic and heritage issues, facilitates.

Its members take turn to be guides and we normally end up having a pongal-vada breakfast at a tiled house in Pitchupillai Street and wash the food down with chilled rose milk from the famed Kalathi shop on East Mada Street.

I think if we have a small team of young people who love Chennai and its history and want to act as guides on heritage walks, then there are more walks/tours to offer not just tourists but our own people.

Last night, I got a e-mail from a writer of the recently-launched business paper, MINT. From the Hindustan Times group. She wants to write a feature on heritage walks in metros. And she located info on our walks in www.frommers.com - the world famous travel info folks.

By the way, if you have time, check out all the info on Chennai on Frommers. There are many slips.

If you have explored some great areas in the city, let us know.

Saturday, March 31, 2007

The Archives on University of Madras

Every time I visit the Marina beach campus of the University of Madras, I venture into the Senate House. Unlike in the past when the restoration of this magnificent heritage landmark was in full swing and watchmen used to keep off curious people at bay, entry to the hall is easy.

Restoration work has frozen now. Bills have not been settled. The University says the budget has been exceeded. The contractors aren't amused. And no one seems to know when and if the work will be completed.
Few students, who study here or drop by to pursue mundane matters, care to stop and stare at this heritage landmark.
Senate House, the University's first building, inaugurated in 1869, is a masterpiece of Robert Fellowes Chisholm, the great architect of 1800s, who harmoniously blended the Indo-Saracenic style with Byzantine and European architectural features.
I was there last week to check out an exhibition put up by the National Archives of India (www.nationalarchives.nic.in) in association with the University of Madras.
And what a pathetic show it was!
Remember that the universities of Madras, Bombay and Calcutta are celebrating 150 years. These were the Presidency Universities. And this show which focussed on all three campuses, was an apology for someone somewhere who had decided that one more event had to be logged.
The Senate House itself has a colourful history. And I expected the university to tap its resources to pool rare pictures and documents and display them.
Instead, there were flexi board copies of early documents that gave birth to higher education, a copy of the picture of Thamotharan Pillai, said to be the first grad, and on the early Vice-chancellors.
A page on the official web site of the university features a few pictures - at http://www.unom.ac.in/photogallery.html. And even these, of events in the Senate House, are interesting. But they were not on display.
To compensate, I sat in this hall and took in its features as the evening sunlight sneaked in through the stained glass panels. A 'supplemental' convocation was to take place this week.
But how are we going to use this great hall?
A small permanent exhibition is an idea to explore.
A multi media show on the history of this university that is on round the working hours, is another idea.
Concerts on weekends will also be unique experiences.
The alumni of Madras University are famous and legion. They need to take the lead in such matters.
I hear the MGR Museum is going to open on the campus of the 'samadhi' of this actor-politician. On the Marina. I will check that one out soon.

Have you been around the University campus and discovered a wonderful nook? Share it here.

Saturday, March 17, 2007

Planning Madras Day 2007

Madras' chronicler S. Muthiah has invited us for lunch. At the Lemongrass restaurant at the Rain Tree hotel, the city's only eco-tel hotel to date, on St. Mary's Road.

Nowadays, on Wednesdays, if you love cooking, then you can join the chef at this rather popular restaurant, and learn a recipe and join him in the kitchen.

We have other business at hand - to plan Madras Day 2007.

Madras Day is on August 22 and we have chosen a Sunday to Sunday period for celebrations and events with Aug.22 in between.

With us are freelance writer Sashi Nair, journalist and writer Sushila Ravindranath, Revathi R., and writer, Carnatic music historian and public speaker, V. Sriram.

We are looking at new ideas for the celebration. A multimedia project on a heritage zone as a contest for city schools. Getting new speakers for the series of talks. Seeking out more hosts in north Madras. Convincing corporates to sponsor tableaus sporting tales of the city so that these lorries could cover more neighbourhoods.

I am hoping IITians will chip in to produce a touch screen facility on these tableaus which will share stories of the less known landmarks. Like Amir Mahal and Descanco Church, Pallavaram Cantonment and Chepauk Palace.

We are also looking at fun ways to get the city's young vibe. Sushila suggests a food fest - a spread of the ten most enduring eat outs that have existed in Madras for ages. Rayars, Dasaprakash, Ratna Cafe, Buharis, Irani Cafe . .

We are terribly excited about new heritage tours. Ten temples of George Towne and beyond. Ten vintage churches. Muslim quarters of Zam Bazaar and Triplicane. And a tour of the Port of Madras, which recently celebrated 125 years.

We will have more as these plans firm up.
But we are looking for ideas and volunteers. Want to join?

Thursday, March 15, 2007

The Chennai-Pondicherry Link

Work took me to Pondicherry. That was in 1996.
I have maintained that link ever since.

I believe that Chennai and Pondy, now Puducherry, must be in link. What do you think?
More so with the scenic East Coast Road that makes it possible for us to cover the 160 kms in just over two hours.

I have known many Enfield riders ( of the MadBulls club) who make this trip as if they were going across Madras to meet friends. I mean, drive down in the morning, drive back the same day.
If you are one of those who has done this trip, you should share your experiences here.

I believe that Pondy is the best getaway for people in Chennai.
And some of us who love both places, are promoting it in a subtle manner.

We floated the first of the ideas last weekend. My musician friend Siddhartha Baja of 'Freedom Jam' fame (Bangalore) hosts 'Sec-Sat' in Pondy. A space for bands form all over who play music of different genres. The event is held every second Saturday of the month, hence Sec-Sat! Admission is free ( If you know of bands who wish to play the email is - pondyjam@gamil.com)

Last weekend, we tied in a Heritage Walk on Sunday morning. Another friend, Ashok Panda of INTACH (Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage) organised the event. We had four people on the walk, two from Madras! (fee - Rs.100)
The walk took us through the old quarters of the French, the Tamil and the Muslim communities and ended in Bharathi Park, which INTACH has nicely renovated.

For us, who conduct the heritage walks through Mylapore, Fort St. George, George Towne and other places in Madras, the Pondy experience was unique. (by the way, if any of you have been on our walks in Madras, do let us know your experiences - we have a few new trails coming up after summer!).

Unique because there were hardly any souls on La Bordainnais Street or Suffren Street and as we walked down Kazy Street in the Muslim quarter we were transported to a different age.

Ashok says he wishes to have a yoga session in the Bharathi Park on Sunday at about 7 am. So the Pondy package for Chennai can get bigger and better.

How would you rate this package?
Drive down to Pondy on Saturday and reach by 5.30 pm. Take a boat ride at Chunnambar ( close to Pondy town) to take in the sea and the palms. Refreshed, check out 'Sec Sat' concerts at 7 pm or go shopping. Hit a bar or a restaurant at 9 pm. Party.

Try out yoga at 7 am or skip it for the heritage walk at 9 am. The walk takes 90mins. The rest of Sunday is yours!

If this package works, then a Chennai - Puducherry link would have got stronger! And if there are some bright sparks with an entrepreneurial streak, here is a business idea to explore. (You don't have to pay us any commission!).

Sunday, March 11, 2007

Taking Schools on Heritage Walks

I need to send two newspapers to bed on Friday night.
Mylapore Times gets the first attention. Arcot Road Times follows.
In addition to Adyar Times, these are the three neighbourhood weeklies I edit and publish.
So its is close to midnight when I get back home. Across the Adyar.

I didn't have time to rest this Saturday. Today, we had to host yet another group of students of Abacus school in Perungudi ( on the Old Mahab Road - OMR fashionably!) on a heritage walk through Mylapore.
This is the second time we are hosting Abacus.

The 'we' refers to 'Namma Mylapore', a small NGO which works on civic and heritage issues in the Mylapore area.
Most members are seniors but when one of us suggested that heritage walks could highlight our profile and also bring us funds, the idea gained popularity.

Namma Mylapore's walks are an edited version of the walks I promote. Our Mylapore-San Thome walk ( on foot and by van) takes over three hours and covers the two fascinating areas of this city. You may call them the Hindu and the Christian quarters. I will have more on this walk later on on the blog. (But if you have been on one before please share your experience and suggestions!)

The edited heritage walk starts at Luz church, goes through the area behind Sanskrit College ( surviving the infamous Buckingham Canal), leads on to the Sri Kapali Temple zone, winds down the Mada Streets ( the big bonus is to enter the temple tank, feed the fish and dream for 120 seconds on the steps) and ends at one of the old Mylapore houses.

For those who want breakfast to be served, we offer pongal, vada and the famed Kalathi rosemilk!

The Abacus experience tells us that we could host lots of students on this walk if we can get the word to them.
There are many bonuses on the way - the Saturday group spent time watching a traditional jeweller at work near Thiruvalluvar Temple ( Quiz question - where is the Thiruvalluvar Temple located? Actual location please!).

But we don't want to restrict the walks to the inner Mylapore area. And to schools. We would love to invite the people at IT cos. and BPOs. There are many, many new comers to the city who want to explore this metro quietly. (Perhaps it will be a great effort for them to rise at 5.30 am to be at the Luz start point!).

I have to grab a lunch time nap before zipping down to Pondy. Puducherry.
We have a heritage walk starting Sunday, 9 am. In association with INTACH, Pondy.
I will tell you more shortly, on this unique package we want to offer Chennaiites.

Friday, March 09, 2007

Cricket's great rivalries: San Thome vs. St. Bede's

The best cricket matches aren't happening only at M A Chidambaram stadium.

They are also happening at St. Bede's behind All India Radio, or at the YMCA in Nandanam. Or at the CPT-promoted arena in Taramani.These are the battles of city school-level cricket. I spent an hour last week at the YMCA grounds. You take a left turn on Chamiers Road at its western end (metres before it joins Mount Road near the Thevar statue), and wind through the quiet CIT Colony ( where one of Madras doughty environment campaigners - O. T. Ravindran - used to live - I must share his story some day).

The ground is not picturesque. I would rate the Taramani, the IIT-Madras and the Presidency College grounds as grounds with character. (If you have had great stories about cricket at these grounds, share them here!).
But on that Friday (March 2) afternoon the temperature was rising.
San Thome versus St. Bede's in the under-15 final of the prestigious TNCA annual tourney for Chennai schools.
Now, one could write a little book on the San Thome vs. St. Bede's rivalries in schools cricket. I am sure you have a few to share.

This was Day Two.

90 overs a side match. San Thome had slipped and recovered on Day One. St. Bede's had also had hiccups and close to lunch, was on tenter-hooks. The situation got worse. Two batsmen played loosely and San Thome was cock a hoop.

Clearly, the first innings would decide the winner.

St. Bede's coaches didn't like what the two boys did on the turf. Tension. How do under-15 boys handle such tension?

Even the delicious sambhar rice, chapatis and curd rice did not water down the tension.

The lead could go either way. Everybody was too serious. Hot. Tense. Didn't even talk. Gobbled up the lunch.

For an onlooker, a close one like me, this was exciting. And it peaked when the teams went back to the middle.

And in minutes, San Thome wrapped up St. Bede's.

Though the second innings was played, the match was called off at tea. And the Somasundaram trophy was awarded to San Thome by the senior scorers.

It beats me. A schools cricket final should be a glorious affair. Perhaps a finale on a weekend so that parents, friends and school boys land up at the grounds to cheer, cry, scream and celebrate a final. A victory. And then, a nice party.

Where were the TNCA officials?
Why didn't we have a great cricketer as chief guest at the finale?

These are the boys who may go on to represent Tamil Nadu, even India perhaps.Schools cricket is big in Chennai. TNCA needs to respect it well. Shouldn't it?

Monday, March 05, 2007

On Sangamam's shore . . .

If you have a ear to the ground in Chennai, then you could not but have been 'touched' by 'Chennai Sangamam', the arts festival for this city. The first edition rolled out on February 20.

Folk arts, classical music concerts, literary debates, essay contests - held in the public places of the city. In parks, public squares, mada veedhis and school campuses, this was a fest the city hasn't seen.

And as the sparklers from Sivakasi burned in the skies off Elliots Beach ( Bessie Beach to some!) on Monday, February 26, to sign off the fest, two people were in the spot.

Father Jegath Gasper, a Catholic priest and Kanimozhi, poet and writer and daughter of the DMK chief M. Karunanidhi.

The duo, with a few others are part of 'Tamil Maiyam', the organisation which promoted the 'Sangamam'.

While the Catholic priest who has been a radio broadcaster and is an impressive speaker and works out of the San Thome Communications Centre on Luz Church Road enjoyed his role, Kanimozhi still looked shy and kept a low profile.

Perhaps, the less stated part of the Sangamam is the fact that it was inspired by the people who run the 'Bangalore Habba'. Blessed by S M Krishna when he was the chief minister of Karnataka, the Habba is now a corporatised event with a huge budget behind it.

(Click on the pictures to view them in actual size)

Last year, the Habba team visiting Chennai tried to share its idea with a few people who are involved in fests. The trail led up to Kanimozhi, then the buzz on the idea went cold before the 'Chennai Sangamam' idea surfaced, suddenly.

I was pleasantly surprised when Fr. Gasper invited me to 'replicate' our annual Mylapore Festival for the Sangamam 'theru-vizha'. Over the years, our fest has gained immense popularity. There are well known people who still recount the joy of enjoying pesa-rattu on Sundareswarar Street after enjoying a Kali-attam by a Puduchery troupe at the Sannidhi Street quadrangle. ( Fr. Gasper had keenly observed the fest too!)

'Neidhal Sangamam' created on the campus of Lady Wellingdon College of Education off Marina Beach didn't have the hum of namma Mylapore and the location was actually a blind spot on a dark beach road!

However, we were amazed at the streams of people we had on the weekend. They cheered the tapp-attam troupe on stage, got their children to sit for sculpture workshop, browsed through the 'thamizh' books at the exhibition and gobbled up the 'mozhaga bajji' at the snacks counters.

I felt really happy. Given the opportunity to soak in such events, people embrace it lovingly.

Our co-ordinator Krishna, a SAP trained young man still looking out for his big job, didn't bite when I told him - run the 'Neidhal Sangmam' every weekend and you will make a great business!